A Refreshing Escape from London
During the height of London’s summer heatwave in July, with temperatures soaring above 30°C, my girlfriend Iman and I decided to escape to the cooler climes of Edinburgh. We quickly packed our bags and took advantage of our Two Together Railcard to save a third off our train tickets, setting off after work on a Friday evening.
Arriving in the Scottish Capital
As our train journey along the East Coast unfolded, we eagerly anticipated the transition from London’s bustling skyline to the charming cobblestones of Edinburgh. Once we arrived, we checked into our accommodation, The Hoxton, a new hotel comprising 11 Georgian townhouses located conveniently near Haymarket station.
While we had our own list of must-see attractions, a conversation with a local barman at The Hoxton led us to rethink our plans. He sketched out a personalized itinerary for us on a napkin, which we decided to follow instead.
Exploring Edinburgh’s Scenic Sites
Our Saturday began with a delightful coffee from Ante, a quaint café tucked away beneath Haddington Place. We enjoyed iced coffees and shared a gooseberry tart while basking in the sunshine at a sidewalk table. Refreshed, we set off towards Calton Hill.
Calton Hill, shaped by ancient volcanic activity and glaciers, was purchased by the Edinburgh town council in 1724 to become one of Britain’s first public parks. The site is now part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site that extends from Holyrood to Edinburgh Castle.
Views from Calton Hill
After a quick hike, we reached the National Monument, known locally as “Edinburgh’s Disgrace.” Intended to mimic the Parthenon, the monument was left unfinished due to budget constraints, but it offers breathtaking views of the city.
Lunch in Leith
Next, we headed to Leith, famously featured in Danny Boyle’s 1996 film Trainspotting. Today, Leith thrives as a hub for Edinburgh’s creative crowd, complete with a plethora of specialty coffee shops rivaling those found in East London.
After exploring, our appetites led us to Alby’s, a beloved local sandwich shop. Open since 2019, Alby’s focuses on classic sandwich fillings, served between tasty slabs of focaccia. We were thrilled to snag the last sandwiches of the day.
A Memorable Dinner
Later that evening, we dined at Ardfern, where the ambiance impressed the locals we spoke with throughout our visit. Named after a coastal village in Argyll, Ardfern features a decor that reflects its namesake’s landscapes. Chef Roberta Hall-McCarron uses local ingredients to craft her small plates, and the barbecue cod, paired with fennel and tartare sauce, was a culinary highlight of our trip.
Weekend Culture and Shopping
On Sunday, we made our way to Modern Two, one of Edinburgh’s contemporary art galleries, eager to see Steve McQueen’s ‘Resistance’ exhibition. Showcasing over a century of photographs related to acts of rebellion, the exhibition captivated us with its insights into the history of social movements in the UK.
Wandering Along the Water of Leith
Afterward, we strolled along the Water of Leith in search of the Anthony Gormley installation, a series of statues placed along the river. Our quest was momentarily interrupted by the sighting of a heron, adding unexpected joy to our journey.
Final Stops in Stockbridge
As our trip drew to a close, we visited Stockbridge just in time for the weekly market. We browsed the stalls, indulging in a bit of last-minute shopping before boarding our train back home, filled with fond memories of our weekend in Edinburgh.
